IRWIN, a journey through time

Crowned with two Michelin stars successive, one during her time at Alan Geaam, the other at Chiberta, near the Champs-Élysées, long-time right-hand man of Guy Savoy, Irwin Durand has chosen to embark on a new adventure: opening his own establishment. A Gourmet restaurant in Paris simply named after him, IRWIN, in his image, where he would pay tribute to a great-grandmother named Irma, who was always an example, a source of inspiration. Irwin Durand was born in the Paris region before moving to Ardèche at the age of 10. For 12 years, he spent his holidays on the Isle of Beauty. He traveled all over France, soaking up its terroirs, forging his style. This 35-year-old chef is considered one of the most talented of his generation, recognized for his precision, his creativity, and his innovative approach to haute cuisine. « My cuisine is a journey through memories, a return to childhood sensations... the simplicity of our first taste sensations »that's what he explains. So many madeleines, often buried.". 

We are in the Parisian Golden Triangle, at 22 rue Cambacérès. The setting is contemporary and intimate, designed by the JOD architecture firm. Burnt wood walls, stone washbasin, concave banquettes, interplay of light and shadow. Elegance and sobriety. A first room seats 22 guests; a second, about ten people around a large table, facing the open kitchen. We are immersed. A booklet is placed on each table. On the first page, the kitchen and service team. Camille, executive chef, Tessa, pastry chef, Ines, Thomas, Ylann. Chandra on dishwashing. For service, Fon Chou and Angelo, as round as the Corsican herb bread that welcomes us, in the style of a migliacciu. We break it with our hands, we share it. Everything is roundness, the room, the tables, the chairs, the lighting. The plating and the flavors. The atmosphere is warm and relaxed.

The menu names were inspired by the streets and places where the Chef worked and developed his cuisine. Mesnil (served at lunch only), Rue du Bac, Quai de Conti; respectively in 3, 5, or 7 courses (€68, €115, and €160). The flavors of the chef's life are revealed, each dish is there to surprise, move, and translate a cuisine between memory and innovation.

A green asparagus is simply roasted, draped with a thyme mayonnaise and grapefruit jelly, juniper berry sabayon, in the style of a Gin tonic. A red mullet plays with textures and temperatures, guided by a reduced head jus that brings iodine to the mouth. Transparency of crispy seaweed. It is accompanied by a tartlet of artichoke purée finished with a flame, melting and crunchy. The sweetbread, poached in milk then roasted in aromatic butter, is brightened by a green vegetable ragout, fava beans, spring onions, and pea pods, with a Meaux mustard crust. Mickaël, front-of-house manager and head sommelier, suggests a Quincy 2022, a Beaujolais «Leynes les Magnons» from the same year, and a Champagne Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs for the sweetbread. A vegetable broth, infused with marjoram, cleanses the palate. 

When it comes to sweets, Tessa Ponzo takes center stage. The young pastry chef's eyes sparkle when she talks about her shareable tart with strawberries, Nyons olives, and rosemary. About her vanilla pods, which she works into ice cream, crémeux, and praline, seasoned with white miso. About her delicate, lactic, monochrome dessert, featuring whipped cream with fermented notes, raw cream infused with sage, a veil of almond milk, and crispy milk skin. One is surprised, one approves, one succumbs... 

IRWIN
22 Rue Cambacérès, 75008 Paris
Subway: Miromesnil
Open Monday to Friday, from 12 PM to 1:30 PM and 7:30 PM to 9:30 PM. For the well-being of our teams, the restaurant closes for lunch at 4:00 PM and for dinner at midnight.

By: Alain Maurice