{"id":15014,"date":"2026-05-27T12:30:49","date_gmt":"2026-05-27T10:30:49","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.travellers-society.com\/?p=15014"},"modified":"2026-05-28T15:37:37","modified_gmt":"2026-05-28T13:37:37","slug":"vallee-de-la-gastronomie-7-etapes","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.travellers-society.com\/en\/vallee-de-la-gastronomie-7-etapes\/","title":{"rendered":"Valley of Gastronomy: 7 Culinary Stops from Dijon to Marseille"},"content":{"rendered":"

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De la moutarde broy\u00e9e \u00e0 la meule de pierre jusqu’aux oursins pos\u00e9s sur un rocher de la M\u00e9diterran\u00e9e, 620 kilom\u00e8tres de route s\u00e9parent deux Frances, et les relient par la table. On a suivi la Vall\u00e9e de la Gastronomie<\/a> de Dijon \u00e0 Marseille, en sept arr\u00eats. Le beurre c\u00e8de la place \u00e0 l’huile d’olive, les caves vo\u00fbt\u00e9es aux terrasses de garrigue, mais le fil ne se rompt jamais.<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

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Dijon : la graine et le temps long<\/b><\/h2>\n

Toits en tuiles verniss\u00e9es, fa\u00e7ades \u00e0 colombages serr\u00e9es autour du palais des Ducs, ruelles pav\u00e9es qui sentent encore le pain d’\u00e9pices \u00e0 la sortie des fournils : Dijon se d\u00e9couvre \u00e0 pied, vite, et marque d’embl\u00e9e le ton du voyage. Ici, tout passe par la bouche. Rue du Faubourg Bretonni\u00e8re, dans une cour int\u00e9rieure que rien ne signale, la Moutarderie Fallot broie ses graines de s\u00e9nev\u00e9 \u00e0 la meule de pierre \u2013 un proc\u00e9d\u00e9 que l’industrie a abandonn\u00e9 et que cette maison familiale, fond\u00e9e en 1840, maintient sans interruption depuis six g\u00e9n\u00e9rations. On termine devant le bar \u00e0 moutardes, o\u00f9 une trentaine de saveurs attendent qu’on les compare \u00e0 la pointe du couteau. Truffe noire, cassis, pain d’\u00e9pices.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Beaune : le poids des crus<\/b><\/h2>\n

20 minutes de route plus au sud, le paysage change de registre. Les vignes apparaissent. Serr\u00e9es, g\u00e9om\u00e9triques, chaque parcelle portant un nom qui fait battre le c\u0153ur des amateurs. Beaune est une petite ville enti\u00e8rement tourn\u00e9e vers le vin, et elle ne s’en cache pas. Les Hospices accueillent chaque troisi\u00e8me week-end de novembre depuis 1859 la Vente des Vins, ench\u00e8res mondiales qui fixent la tendance des grands crus bourguignons. Le reste de l’ann\u00e9e, on d\u00e9guste un Puligny-Montrachet chez Olivier Leflaive, on pousse jusqu’\u00e0 Chagny pour d\u00eener \u00e0 la Maison Lameloise, 3 \u00e9toiles Michelin, \u00c9ric Pras aux commandes, une cuisine de terroir port\u00e9e \u00e0 son point d’aboutissement.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Le M\u00e2connais : un chai dans une \u00e9glise<\/b><\/h2>\n

On continue vers le sud, la Bourgogne<\/a> s’adoucit. Les coteaux s’arrondissent, les toits perdent leurs tuiles verniss\u00e9es. Pr\u00e8s de la Roche de Solutr\u00e9 \u2013 cette falaise calcaire qui se dresse comme une proue au-dessus des vignes \u2013, la Maison Auvigue re\u00e7oit dans un lieu que personne n’attend : un chai de d\u00e9gustation install\u00e9 dans la nef d’une ancienne \u00e9glise romane du XIIe si\u00e8cle. F\u00fbts de ch\u00eane sous les vo\u00fbtes de pierre, lumi\u00e8re filtr\u00e9e par des vitraux d’origine, silence de cave. On go\u00fbte un Pouilly-Fuiss\u00e9 \u00e0 la min\u00e9ralit\u00e9 nette \u2013 un blanc sec qui raconte exactement le sol dont il vient. Dehors, la mont\u00e9e \u00e0 la Roche prend 45 minutes. On y va t\u00f4t, quand les vignes fument encore dans la brume du matin.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Lyon : le confluent<\/b><\/h2>\n

On pourrait \u00e9crire un article entier sur Lyon<\/a>. La ville est dense, bruyante, gourmande sans retenue. Les Halles Paul Bocuse alignent leurs \u00e9tals de quenelles de brochet, de cervelle de canut, de saucisson brioch\u00e9 et de pralines roses. Les bouchons, \u00e0 nappe en papier et patron en tablier, transmettent leurs recettes comme des secrets de famille. Les cuisines d’auteur contribuent aux 95 \u00e9toiles Michelin que compte l’ensemble de la Vall\u00e9e de la Gastronomie. On traverse Lyon comme on traverse un chapitre dense, en sachant qu’on y reviendra.<\/span><\/p>\n

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La vall\u00e9e du Rh\u00f4ne : pierre et soleil<\/b><\/h2>\n

Quelque chose change au sud de Lyon<\/a>, et ce n’est pas seulement le paysage. Le Rh\u00f4ne s’\u00e9largit, les coteaux se redressent, l’air s\u00e8che. \u00c0 Tain-l’Hermitage, la colline mythique dresse ses vignes en pente raide \u2013 granit, syrah, soleil plein sud. Chez M. Chapoutier, maison en biodynamie depuis 1991, on go\u00fbte un Hermitage rouge qui a le poids de la pierre d’o\u00f9 il vient. 300 m\u00e8tres plus bas, la Cit\u00e9 du chocolat Valrhona impose un changement de registre \u2013 torr\u00e9faction, beurre de cacao, vanille dans l’air \u2013 et rappelle que la vall\u00e9e du Rh\u00f4ne ne se r\u00e9sume pas au vin. \u00c0 Mont\u00e9limar, les nougats de la Fabrique Arnaud Soubeyran collent aux doigts, ti\u00e8des de miel et de blanc d’\u0153uf battu. Le sud approche. On le sent, charg\u00e9 de thym.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Provence : l’huile remplace le beurre<\/b><\/h2>\n

On ne sait jamais exactement o\u00f9 commence la Provence. On sait seulement qu’\u00e0 un moment, la mati\u00e8re grasse change. Les platanes s’\u00e9largissent, la pierre blanchit, l’air sent le romarin sec. \u00c0 Maussane-les-Alpilles,<\/a> dans la vall\u00e9e des Baux-de-Provence, le Moulin Cornille \u2013 coop\u00e9rative ol\u00e9icole depuis 1924, install\u00e9e dans une b\u00e2tisse vo\u00fbt\u00e9e du XVIIe si\u00e8cle \u2013 accueille dans ses anciens greniers une exposition sur le savoir-faire de l’olivier, avant une d\u00e9gustation d’huile aux olives matur\u00e9es, douce et longue en bouche. La bascule est l\u00e0, d\u00e9finitive. \u00c0 Aix-en-Provence, la distillerie Garaga\u00ef pousse la logique du terroir jusqu’au spiritueux : plantes aromatiques cueillies \u00e0 l’\u00e9tat sauvage dans la garrigue, pastis assembl\u00e9 \u00e0 la main. Les cigales ont remplac\u00e9 le silence des caves.<\/span><\/p>\n

[\/spb_text_block] [spb_image image=\u00a0\u00bb15025″ image_size=\u00a0\u00bbfull\u00a0\u00bb frame=\u00a0\u00bbnoframe\u00a0\u00bb caption_pos=\u00a0\u00bbhover\u00a0\u00bb remove_rounded=\u00a0\u00bbyes\u00a0\u00bb fullwidth=\u00a0\u00bbno\u00a0\u00bb overflow_mode=\u00a0\u00bbnone\u00a0\u00bb link_target=\u00a0\u00bb_self\u00a0\u00bb lightbox=\u00a0\u00bbno\u00a0\u00bb intro_animation=\u00a0\u00bbnone\u00a0\u00bb animation_delay=\u00a0\u00bb200″ width=\u00a0\u00bb1\/2″ el_position=\u00a0\u00bbfirst\u00a0\u00bb][\/spb_image] [spb_image image=\u00a0\u00bb15034″ image_size=\u00a0\u00bbfull\u00a0\u00bb frame=\u00a0\u00bbnoframe\u00a0\u00bb caption_pos=\u00a0\u00bbhover\u00a0\u00bb remove_rounded=\u00a0\u00bbyes\u00a0\u00bb fullwidth=\u00a0\u00bbno\u00a0\u00bb overflow_mode=\u00a0\u00bbnone\u00a0\u00bb link_target=\u00a0\u00bb_self\u00a0\u00bb lightbox=\u00a0\u00bbno\u00a0\u00bb intro_animation=\u00a0\u00bbnone\u00a0\u00bb animation_delay=\u00a0\u00bb200″ width=\u00a0\u00bb1\/2″ el_position=\u00a0\u00bblast\u00a0\u00bb][\/spb_image] [spb_divider type=\u00a0\u00bbstandard\u00a0\u00bb text=\u00a0\u00bbGo to top\u00a0\u00bb top_margin=\u00a0\u00bb0px\u00a0\u00bb bottom_margin=\u00a0\u00bb30px\u00a0\u00bb fullwidth=\u00a0\u00bbno\u00a0\u00bb width=\u00a0\u00bb1\/1″ el_position=\u00a0\u00bbfirst last\u00a0\u00bb] [\/spb_column] [spb_column col_sm=\u00a0\u00bb3″ padding_horizontal=\u00a0\u00bb0″ width=\u00a0\u00bb1\/4″ el_position=\u00a0\u00bbfirst\u00a0\u00bb] [\/spb_column] [spb_column col_sm=\u00a0\u00bb9″ padding_horizontal=\u00a0\u00bb0″ width=\u00a0\u00bb3\/4″ el_position=\u00a0\u00bblast\u00a0\u00bb] [spb_text_block animation=\u00a0\u00bbnone\u00a0\u00bb animation_delay=\u00a0\u00bb0″ simplified_controls=\u00a0\u00bbyes\u00a0\u00bb custom_css_percentage=\u00a0\u00bbno\u00a0\u00bb padding_vertical=\u00a0\u00bb0″ padding_horizontal=\u00a0\u00bb0″ margin_vertical=\u00a0\u00bb0″ border_size=\u00a0\u00bb0″ border_styling_global=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb width=\u00a0\u00bb1\/1″ el_position=\u00a0\u00bbfirst last\u00a0\u00bb]<\/p>\n

Marseille : le bout de la route<\/b><\/h2>\n

Le voyage s’ach\u00e8ve comme il avait commenc\u00e9 : par les sens et par la rue. Marseille est bruyante, iod\u00e9e, sans filtre. Les navettes \u2013 biscuits \u00e0 la fleur d’oranger, craquants et poudr\u00e9s \u2013 s’ach\u00e8tent aux Accoules avant de reprendre la route. Les \u00e9tals de la Cri\u00e9e exposent chaque matin ce que la M\u00e9diterran\u00e9e a bien voulu livrer : rascasses, tellines, favouilles, oursins qu’on ouvre au couteau sur le port. \u00c0 Port-Saint-Louis-du-Rh\u00f4ne, Camargue Coquillage invite le visiteur dans sa cabane ostr\u00e9icole \u2013 collage d’hu\u00eetres, d\u00e9gustation de Perles de Camargue bio, les pieds dans le sable, le Rh\u00f4ne qui termine sa course \u00e0 quelques m\u00e8tres. 620 kilom\u00e8tres plus t\u00f4t, on broyait de la moutarde dans une cour pav\u00e9e de Dijon. Le beurre de Bourgogne semble appartenir \u00e0 un autre monde. Et c’est exactement pour \u00e7a qu’il faudra refaire la route, dans l’autre sens, cette fois.<\/span><\/p>\n

Plus d’informations et suggestions d’itin\u00e9raires : <\/span>valleedelagastronomie.com<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

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D\u00e9couvrez le Club Travellers Society<\/a> : Jusqu\u2019\u00e0 25% de r\u00e9duction sur les plus beaux h\u00f4tels<\/strong><\/h2>\n

[\/spb_text_block]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

[spb_column col_sm=\u00a0\u00bb3″ padding_horizontal=\u00a0\u00bb0″ width=\u00a0\u00bb1\/4″ el_position=\u00a0\u00bbfirst\u00a0\u00bb] [spb_section spb_section_id=\u00a0\u00bb9177″ width=\u00a0\u00bb1\/1″ el_position=\u00a0\u00bbfirst last\u00a0\u00bb] [\/spb_column] [spb_column col_sm=\u00a0\u00bb9″ padding_horizontal=\u00a0\u00bb0″ width=\u00a0\u00bb3\/4″ el_position=\u00a0\u00bblast\u00a0\u00bb] [spb_text_block animation=\u00a0\u00bbnone\u00a0\u00bb animation_delay=\u00a0\u00bb0″ simplified_controls=\u00a0\u00bbyes\u00a0\u00bb custom_css_percentage=\u00a0\u00bbno\u00a0\u00bb padding_vertical=\u00a0\u00bb0″ padding_horizontal=\u00a0\u00bb0″ margin_vertical=\u00a0\u00bb0″ custom_css=\u00a0\u00bbmargin-top: 0px;margin-bottom: 0px;\u00a0\u00bb border_size=\u00a0\u00bb0″ border_styling_global=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb width=\u00a0\u00bb1\/1″ el_position=\u00a0\u00bbfirst last\u00a0\u00bb] De la moutarde broy\u00e9e \u00e0 la meule de pierre jusqu’aux oursins pos\u00e9s sur un rocher de la M\u00e9diterran\u00e9e, 620 kilom\u00e8tres de route s\u00e9parent deux Frances, et les relient […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":27,"featured_media":15030,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"inline_featured_image":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[254,14,15],"tags":[121,187,237],"yoast_head":"\nVall\u00e9e de la Gastronomie : 7 \u00e9tapes gourmandes de Dijon \u00e0 Marseille<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"D\u00e9couvrez notre s\u00e9lection de 7 \u00e9tapes gourmandes pour suivre la Vall\u00e9e de la Gastronomie de Dijon \u00e0 Marseille.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.travellers-society.com\/en\/vallee-de-la-gastronomie-7-etapes\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" 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